Our Daily Lives: Adelphi

Located in a rural farming district, Adelphi borders on the sugar and orange belt of Trelawney and is only 30-40 minutes from Montego Bay. We are in Saint James Parish (like US county or state) located about 73 mi (or 117 km) North-West of Kingston, the country's capital town. The census doesn’t list our town, but I guess the population is less than 1000. (Towns less than 2500 are not on the list. In the 2011 census Montego Bay had 110,115 residents.

Our town is really a cross-roads with about 5-10 buildings; it has a primary school (where I work), 2 shops, a police station, a post office, a government registrar’s office, many churches, an auto repair, 2 cook shops (restaurants with maybe 1 or 2 tables, but mostly take out, and a bar (as teachers, it is not acceptable for us to go to a bar – although we can order a beer or even a rum in a cook shop.)

Post Office & Registrar's Office

Police Station

Housing – We live in the lower level of a wonderful home up on a hill. Our landlord lives above, and she is marvelous about helping us. She has chickens and we now get fresh eggs every week, also some sugar cane which she has given us as a super sweet snack. We have a kitchen/living area (which we’ve modified with enough table space for both computers. The bedroom is large; we have a mosquito net over the bed, and we have bathroom with a shower. Piped water (meaning ‘city water’) is pretty reliable and drinkable (it is heavily chlorinated) and the house has 600 gallons stored in rooftop tanks for when the water (or electric pumps) fail – these tanks are ubiquitous all over Jamaica. There is no hot water – but after all, this is the tropics, and cold showers are wonderful.

Water tanks on the roof of almost every house

Community is vital. We’ve attend the local CDC (Community Development Committee) meeting – we met in an unused former day care centre – the conversation quickly moved to our ‘secondary projects’ for Peace Corps…ideas for the building included a homework/study place, maybe a small library, a computer skills training centre, and even some workout equipment. The idea is to meet local needs for community gathering, to keep kids engaged, to provide possible job skills training, and to enhance our community. The Jamaican government’s Social Development Commission is a wonderful way to help communities find resources and grants. We hope to identify our secondary community project by September.

Mr Chin's Shop (Blue) & Bar (Yellow)

Shopping - There are 2 shops in Adelphi – Miss Rose’s at the bottom of our hill, and Mr. Chin’s (actually many shops are owned by Chinese merchants – they are all called “Mr. Chin” even if they have another Asian or even Irish family name). Both shops work like many in this country – all the items are enclosed behind a wire and glass wall – you go up the small window (imagine old time banks going up to the teller’s ‘cage’) and you ask for what you need – usually there is no choice of brands, and often the answer is ‘not today’. Since Miss Rose’s is only 3 minutes from our apartment, we can even buy frozen ice cream and get it home before it melts in this climate.

We’ve made 2 marketing trips to ‘town’ – which means Montego Bay. There are grocery stores similar to small town USA – aisles of open shelves with some choices of products…the local brands are far cheaper than the imported from ‘foreign’ which means USA or Canada. Also Asian imports of canned meats and vegetables are much cheaper than North American.

Market Day

Produce comes from the open markets – some farmers rent stalls inside and are there every day, other ‘higglers’ spread out a blue tarpaulin on the ground and sell whatever they have – could be yams, callalou (like spinach) and cell phone chargers all on the same tarp.

The hill and path to our place (yes, goats and chickens too)

Getting our purchases home is fun: we walk loaded down with ‘scandal bags’ (black plastic shopping bags) or take a short taxi ($100 Jamaican = about $1.00 US per person) to the Total Gas station in town – that’s where the mini-vans pick up for surrounding towns. When a van headed to Adelphi arrives, the driver miraculously helps load everything into the smallest places…under seats, behind legs, and on laps of strangers. Everyone squeezes in (it’s called ‘smalling up’) and with maybe 20 people and all their stuff in a 15 passenger vehicle, we head off up the pot-holed road for the 30 minute drive to Adelphi. We are dropped off at the bottom of our hill and walk up with our scandal bags.

On the north coast, about 45 minutes away (but requires 2 taxis – since taxis drive fixed routes and don’t go all the way) is Falmouth where the mega cruise ships come in. On Wednesday is “Ben Dung” market – actually Patwa for “Bend Down”. For decades, hundreds of higglers have travelled many miles from all parishes to either sell or purchase food, clothing and an assorted variety of haberdashery items at reduced retail and wholesale prices.

As one higgler explained in the Sunday Gleaner (newspaper), “The market could have earned its name because of how, with a scarcity of stalls, items used to be spread on tarpaulin on the ground for display, forcing persons to bend down to pick up the items for inspection.”

People build as they have money - so they live downstairs for years while building above.

Wash day – we do our own laundry – BY HAND in a wash tub outside. Elbow grease – plus some strong detergent and good old ‘blue soap’ for the areas that need bleach are part of the process. The clothes lines are out behind the papaya trees.

Cooking: We did spoil ourselves and invested some of our ‘settling in’ allowance from Peace Corps to buy a coffee maker and a toaster oven. Our gas stove is fuelled by a 30 lbs. propane tank. When it runs low, we can refill it just down at the bottom of the hill at Rose’s shop. We continue to learn about Jamaican produce and are getting creative mixing styles for our meals. We’ll save food for yet another blog post.

Satellite map from Bing – here is a map of our home… (structure at the 'S' bend is my school)

The schools – We each teach at primary schools (Grades 1-6). We’ve posted about these before, and we’ll devote a separate blog post just to the schools and kids.

Irene relaxing with her guitar on our veranda

Saying hello to everyone – There is a Patwa saying, “Howdy an' tenk yu, noh brok noh square” - meaning: To say hello and thank you is not a bad thing; it is good. Even on my 10 minute walk to work in the morning I probably say hello to 10 or more people, ask how they night was, and also wave hello to every car and taxi passing by. Not saying ‘gud maahning’ is plain disrespectful; if the elderly man who lives next to my school is out on his veranda, or out in his yard picking weeds, I will always try to wander by and say good morning too.

So, we’re settling in, and we really feel very much at home. Of course, being here together as a couple is the best part of our experience. Each day we come home and share our stories – certainly there are problems and struggles, but we’ve always found that there is at least one heart-warming story or success which made the day worthwhile. Most of our Peace Corps colleagues came here as singles – we communicate a lot by text or email, and we have all found a lot of mutual support from what PC calls “our government issued friends”.

We close with two wonderfully simple Patwa phrases when departing,

 “Respec” and “Walk Gud”.

The view from our road